In light of recent events, the Autumn Winter 2018 catwalk shows were a mix of interpretations by creative directors of the now globally prevalent neo-feminism. Exhibiting ways to express power and strength whilst maintaining a sense of sex appeal and soft femininity was the apparent challenge. Drawing from menswear as well as key waves of feminism throughout history, the pieces were intended to command respect for the wearer. Translating this intention into the makeup looks, everything was pared back with a strong focal point on complimenting the models’ complexion and features to embrace individuality. Keeping light-handed is the main method of practice to ensure a flawless and precise result.
Reflective of the American current affairs making an impact in the corporate world, Alexander Wang’s AW18 spoke a new language of female power-dressing. Bringing a sexy playfulness into the mix, Wang pushed the boundaries of what it means to be an executive in this age. Highlighting the sense of control and strength that we hold as women, the toughness in the pieces were offset with minimal makeup, designed by Diane Kendal – “This season, the inspiration is all about powerful beauty.” Enhancing the skin to perfection was the main focus. Atop a freshly moisturised base, a glowing foundation was applied, followed by concealer and powder. A tinge of contour blush and highlighting blush was used to give off a naturally chiseled look.
For the natural-looking power brow, matte eyeshadow, brow pencil and tinted brow gel was layered. On the eyes was a light wash of matte grey-brown to add soft dimension.
The greatly anticipated spectacle of Chanel’s show did not fail to surprise or delight this season. Its Fall-Winter Ready-To-Wear Show was set in a majestic autumnal forest lined with nine trees within the Grand Palais. Tweed, quilting, fur, padding, skirt suits, exaggerated shoulders, gold boots, glittery tights and neon gloves graced the leaf-strewn runway. To compliment the hues, a healthy sculpted look was created via draping. A large dose of golds, bronzes and warm browns were swept across the eyes and blended out to the temples and cheekbones. Groomed brows, mascara and natural lips with a tight frayed top-knot finished the look.
Marking the 50th anniversary of the 1968 feminist ‘youthquake’ in Paris, Maria Grazia Chiuri created Dior’s AW18 Ready to Wear as an ode to the unisex direction of women’s fashion post sixty-eight. Craft was big in the collection – patchwork, crochet, shearling and panelled denim was adorned with brass hardware, baker boy hats and large coloured sunglasses. Delicate sheer pieces that showed off the female silhouette were also prevalent to exude empowerment. Reflecting the spirit of the season, Peter Philips played with coloured eyeliner that matched the hue of the shades. Drawing a line on both the upper and lower lashlines to create a “camouflage” make-up effect. The rest of the face was left natural and radiant, keeping the main focus on the eyes.